How to sew a Bluff Patch Pocket by 2 sewing methods (The size is a Chest Pocket)

How to sew a Bluff Patch Pocket by 2 sewing methods (The size is a Chest Pocket)

We made a Bluff Patch Pocket that is a waist pocket at the last time.
Now, we show you how to sew a SMALL Bluff Patch Pocket by 2 sewing methods this time.


The pocket size: The width is 11.5 cm (4.5 inch) and the height is 12 cm (4.7 inch).


-Sewing method 1-

The fabric: 100% Cotton Gabardine (No stretch).
No lining of the pocket.


Hand sew a blind stitch in the pocket opening for invisible stitches on the right side same as last time.

Basting stitch.

Iron the pocket while removing the stitch mark of basting stitch after unpicking basting stitch.


-Sewing method 2-

The fabric: a high-density Polyester fabric that needle holes remains (No stretch).
No lining of the pocket.


Sew the pocket while aligning the finish line of Seam Allowance (inside the pocket) with the mark.

Sew 8mm from the edge of seam allowance as a guide line.
It is very difficult to sew at the corner of the pocket without this guide line.

This sewing method cannot be used for stretch fabrics such as knits because a knit fabric stretches during sewing.

She did not sew the pocket opening because it was polyester material. (This is more beautiful)



This presser foot is used for detailed sewing work.
Since it is a customized by a professional sewing machine shop, it is not sold.

The white tape is just a "PP strap".
This is in order not to slide while sewing (sewing gap).
When the thickness of the fabric is different, the pressure of the presser foot and the feed dog are not stable.
Putting this tape means adding the height, this is very useful.


1 needle sewing machine : DDL-5550N JUKI
1 needle overlock sewing machine : MO-3604 JUKI

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BGM composition : Button hole craftman

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Paris collection, Tokyo collection etc... Sample garment factory Atelier Saison.
We have sewed at Shibuya-ku, Jingumae in Tokyo for more than 35 years.

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